This time, I was supposed to be the one in charge.
I had genuinely no idea where to start. But I had spent the whole morning thinking about how to look like I did — rather than dealing with how tense I actually felt about stepping on a boat again after so long.
So as the beast appeared in front of me, emboldened by the sunlight, I made my move. First step onto the passerelle — no hesitation, no shaking. I walked the whole 24 feet like I owned it. I walked the whole 24 feet like I owned it.
Then I turned and walked back, slowly, the way someone who knows what they're doing might. Glanced up at the mast — the kind of look that's supposed to mean something — and made my way to the helm, where the wheel, wide and proud, was waiting for me.
I let the rest of the family board with what I hoped looked like a serious command. Told them about the safety features, the rules for the navigation ahead, and made it clear I was the one in charge — so they should treat me accordingly. Better than they usually do, when I'm just the husband or the father.
I turned the small engine on. Released the lines with some technique, put them away properly, slowly — partly so they could follow what I was doing, and partly so I could follow my own rusty memories of how it was supposed to go.
And then off. Quietly out of our spot, through the harbour waterways, and a few minutes later — into the open water.
Nobody on board knew I was making most of it up as I went.
So I kept going, chin up against the growing wind, eyes on the horizon — trying to open Chapter 2 of navigation instructions somewhere in my memory. Because what was in front of me was not exactly what I had hoped for, for a peaceful return to the water.
That's it for Issue #01. If you know someone who's figuring out boating on Swiss lakes, Italian lakes and seas— forward this to them. And if someone forwarded it to you, you can subscribe here.
On Alpine lakes, the afternoon wind builds faster than you'd expect. On Lago di Lugano the _inverna _can push 20 knots by 2pm even on a calm-looking morning. Always check the local forecast — not just the general weather app
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Short answer: yes, for inland waters — but you'll need the ICC (International Certificate of Competence) if you go coastal. I'm writing a full guide on this. More next week.
I got part of this wrong. A Swiss licence is not simply valid on Como and Garda, and the ICC does not solve the coast. Here is what I found in the official texts. It depends on where you live, and on whether you are on a lake or at sea.
If you live outside Italy: Italian rules let you skipper an Italian-registered boat with the licence from your country of residence (for foreign citizens, the text says your country of citizenship), within that licence's limits, and only if you are not paid for it. Keep the original licence and proof of where you live on board. On a Swiss-registered boat, Swiss rules apply. So on Como or Garda, a Swiss category A or D licence covers you within its limits. At sea it is different. A Swiss A or D licence is for inland waters only, and so is the ICC based on it. Where Italy requires a licence at sea, you need the Swiss certificate for sea yachts (Hochseeausweis) or another sea licence.
If you live in Italy: as an Italian citizen, you need an Italian licence above the Italian thresholds, whatever the boat's flag, and a Swiss licence does not count. On Lake Lugano and Lake Maggiore, the 1992 Italy-Switzerland convention applies instead, and the licence rules follow where you live.
For everyone: below 30 kW (40.8 CV) and within 6 miles of the coast, Italy requires no licence at all, only a minimum age. Two things I am not sure about. If you live in Switzerland without a Swiss passport, the Italian text points to your country of citizenship, so check before you rely on your Swiss licence. And the text does not clearly cover foreign citizens who live in Italy. If in doubt, ask the rental company and the local authorities before you go. Sources: the Italian rule for foreign licences (Art. 34 of DM 146/2008, as rewritten in 2024), the Italian licence thresholds (Art. 39 of the Codice della nautica da diporto), the Swiss Federal Office of Transport on the ICC, and the convention text.
